Pick me!!

Spring is a time of the year, when many people think of adopting a pet.  Pets are a lifetime commitment though and the decision to adopt a pet should not be made on a whim.  Puppies are a lot of work- especially in the first year.  It
is a full time job.  They must go out every 1-2 hours and until the age of 4 months, will not be physically able to “hold it” for longer than 4 hours. Daily exercise and training is a must.

There are so many different breeds to choose from when considering whether or not to adopt a pet.  Purebred dogs can have the advantage where traits are more predictable but they can also have more health problems and are usually more expensive to purchase.  Consider the breed and its characteristics and whether it will be a good match for your family.  There are so many relinquished pets out there looking for new homes why not consider a rescue?  Not sure if you are ready to make the leap yet?  Maybe a pocket pet or reptile would be a better choice?  Last time I was at the Alliston Humane Society I was blown away by the number of exotics up for adoption.

Your biggest responsibility is to educate yourself as to health care needs and costs of pet ownership and to spay and neuter your pet. With exotics, there are particularities with each species that you need to be familiar with. Expect to spend close to $2,000 in the first year for a kitten and close to $3,000 for a puppy (http://www.ovma.org/pet_owners/cost_of_owning_dog_cat.html) Definitely consider insurance and/or starting a bank account for pet accidents/illnesses.

Your veterinarian would be happy to assist you in finding the right pet.  If you do take the leap, one of the first stops should be your vet clinic for a full physical examination.

The post Adopting a Pet appeared first on Holland Street Veterinary Services.

We love it in here!

Crate training has been a hot topic of discussion over the years. Thankfully there aren’t many people that I’ve come across that balk at the thought of crate training their dog. It is a useful tool for the safety and protection of your pet and your home! Crate training is not a cruel and unusual punishment as some have claimed. In fact, the crate should not be used for punishment. A crate is your dogs’ own personal space, like a bedroom, or a den, such as we would see canines (coyotes, wolves etc.) using in the wild. I find that my own dogs will often seek out their crates of their own accord when they want a nap, or just to retreat from household activity. Sometimes our dogs need a break from us and retreat to the privacy of their crates. In fact, we train our pups to know the word “den” and they go in their crates on command.

Especially with young dogs, the use of a crate when you are away from home, or too busy to watch the pup is essential for safety. Puppies and even adult dogs get into mischief and will chew and will often be destructive when left on their own. Crate training is perfect for keeping the pup from destroying your home while it is learning acceptable outlets for chewing etc. In addition, in the event your dog is required to be crated, ie) for travel, or for instance during a hospital stay at the veterinarian, it will be much less stressful to all if your dog is acclimatized to being in a crate.

Crates should be large enough for the adult dog to stand, sit and stretch out. Ideally for a puppy, you start with a smaller crate, or block off one end, so he can’t use one end for sleeping and the other for eliminating. We want the pup to learn not to mess where it sleeps and eats.

Place the crate in an area so he is with you, and part of family activities, even as an observer. Do not put him in the basement. Place the crate in the kitchen or family room – if possible move it around with you. A night you may want to have the crate in your bedroom even for the first few nights. Not only does this provide comfort to the puppy, but your own sleeping patterns will encourage the pup to sleep. If you’d prefer not to have the puppy in the bedroom, often a ticking clock or low playing radio near the crate will help provide comfort. The first few nights or even a week may see your pup whining and carrying on when put in the crate but don’t give up. It will be worth it in the end!

I will never take a pup out of a crate when he is fussing, as that only teaches if he complains enough, then he can come out – rewarding bad behavior. Wait until the puppy has stopped complaining for three to five minutes and then let him out while he is being quiet. Be sure to give plenty of praise at that time. You can give him a special chew toy or treat when you put him in the crate. I will often toss a toy or tasty treat in the crate and give the “in your den” command. Most often the pup will bound in after the treat, at which point I close the door and walk away. Be sure to give lots of praise when he’s inside being quiet, and lengthen the periods you leave him in. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your puppy home. Close the puppy in the crate at regular one-to-two-hour intervals, and whenever he must be left alone, for up to three or four hours.

Remember, putting your dog into a crate does not teach housetraining on its own. To be successful, you want to prevent your puppy from making mistakes in the first place, and crate training certainly does help in this process. Most dogs don’t like to eliminate if they cannot get away from it, so while in the crate they learn to ‘hold it’. When you let your puppy out of its crate, immediately take the pup outside and praise heavily when the pup eliminates in the appropriate spot. Many people punish a dog for messing in the house, and then virtually ignore the good behavior when they eliminate outside.

To prevent mistakes, don’t let your pup have the run of the house. He needs 100% active supervision. If you must leave the room, crate him or take him with you. The use of baby gates in an area that is easy to clean such as the kitchen is often helpful. This way the pup can have ample free time out and with the use of baby gates he or she can be contained in a one area. This allows for social time with family members but because the pup doesn’t have free roam of the house, it is easier for you to keep an eye on him. Having the pup underfoot in a contained area allows you to watch for any signs your pup might give indicating that a trip outside is in order. Also, most kitchens aren’t carpeted so if there is an accident it is easy to clean up!! Crate training isn’t hard to accomplish, especially if it is started early. It is worth the time invested to  make your dog a well adjusted member of the family. Good luck!!

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Cause
Ear mites primarily live in the ear canal, where they feed on skin debris. Having ear mites causes inflammation, and can lead to secondary ear infections.

Eggs are laid in the ear.  The eggs hatch in about 3 weeks and then develop into adult mites that can also reproduce.

While ear mites are generally found in the ears, they can also wander out onto the body, causing irritation and itchiness of the skin as well.

Risk Factors
Cats are more commonly affected than dogs. Ear mites are spread mostly by direct contact with another animal that has ear mites (they are commonly seen in outdoor cats). They are more common in young animals.

Signs and Symptoms of Ear Mites

• head shaking
• scratching at ears
• dark waxy or crusty discharge from the ears (looks a bit like coffee grounds)
• sometimes there will be scratching or irritation of other parts of body

Diagnosis of Ear Mites
Ear mites are confirmed when they are found in a sample of the ear discharge examined under a microscope.  They can even be seen as little white specks moving around in the ear (when using a magnifying scope to examine the ear). Confirming the presence of the mites is necessary to distinguish whether your pet has ear mites or an ear infection.

Treating Ear Mites
There are several ways for treating ear mites, and your veterinarian will recommend a treatment protocol for your pet. Over the counter medications are often less effective or require extended treatments compared to medications prescribed by your vet, especially the newer medications that require a single application to be effective.

A thorough cleaning of the ears can help clear the discharge to help calm the irritation and remove some of the mites. This can be followed up in several ways:

• One-time treatments applied to the ear.
• One time treatments applied to the skin: medications such as Revolution® or Advantage Multi® (these are typically used as monthly parasite control medications; a single dose usually takes care of an ear mite infection but you may consider using them monthly to prevent reinfection and control other pests).
• Repeated treatments applied to the ear. It is important to strictly follow your vet’s recommended dosage schedule for successful treatment of ear mites (usually twice daily treatments for a week or more).
• Injectable meds can also be used.

All pets in the home should be treated at the same time, even if they are not showing symptoms.

Ear mites do not survive for long on humans and as a result do not cause any long term infections. Rarely, however, they will briefly hang out on humans, and may cause a short-lived but very itchy rash.

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When Tucker was 8 weeks old my husband and I decided to get pet insurance due to him being a German Shepherd and at a higher risk for hip dysplasia.  Boy, am I ever happy we decided to get insurance.  In Tucker’s first 3 years the insurance company paid more to us than we did to them.  It’s so great to know that we have comfort that whatever (heaven forbid) comes our way in Tuckers life we can provide the best health care possible.

What is Pet Insurance?
Pet insurance is like having health benefits for your pet.  It’s a sure way that you can provide you pet with the best veterinary care in case of accidents or illness.

As I was mentioning earlier Tucker was very accident prone in his first 3 years.  He had 3 broken toenails (which needed sedation to take care of).  He stepped on glass at the park and need sutures (sedation again).  He needed hip and legs x rays.  We took him countless times for sore ears and allergies (just ask Dr. Michelle).  Was it ever nice to have the ability to say “whatever he needs just do it!”

The 411 on Pet insurance

Okay, so there is a monthly premium and yes the more you use your insurance the premium will go up. There is a yearly deductible or per condition deductible.  Here are some prices of vet care procedures if you pet unfortunately gets sick or injured.

• Total hip replacement $ 6,000
• Torn cruciate surgery $3000 per leg
• Ultrasound $ 495
• Cystotomy (stone removal from bladder) $1500 plus
• Foreign body surgery $2000
• Pancreatitis $2000 plus
• Urinary Blockage $2000 
• Basic x rays $300 plus
• Basic diagnostics for unknown conditions $1000 plus

Looking at those totals makes $50-$80 a month not seem so bad. 

A little bit on how insurance works:
The pet insurance companies all have different protocols. Some will have just one annual deductible and once you satisfy that for the year then everything else is 80% covered. Another company has a deductible per condition but allows you to pick what you want you’re deductible to be (therefore dictating your monthly premium and covers up to 90% of a claim. Some companies have 1 plan while others have a variety of plans to suit your needs.

Premiums are usually based on species (Canine or Feline), breed, age, large breed or small breed.   Most of them also give you a certain amount towards dental, behaviour therapy, alternative treatments ie: Acupuncture, water hydrotherapy.

Here at Holland Street Veterinary Services we give all new puppies and kittens a free 6 week trial of insurance.  During that 6 week period if you make a claim there is a $100 deductible per condition and they will cover you up to $5000.  When there is a week left in the trial the company will call you to ask if you want to sign up for a plan. It is best to continue with a plan from there before the trial runs out, to avoid additional deductibles and waiting periods.

Insurance is one of those things you may never need to use, but it is definitely a blessing to have when you need it.  If you have any more questions or concerns about insurance please contact your veterinarian.

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Keratoconjunctivits sicca is the technical term for “Dry Eye”. ‘Kerato’ refers to the cornea, ‘conjunctivae’ are the pink membranes of the eye, ‘it is’ means inflammation, and ‘sicca’ means dry.  The eyes become irritated without tears, and the
conjunctival tissue around the eyes become red.  Over time, the cornea may turn brown in effort to protect the eye and there is often a gooey yellow discharge in and around the eyes of a patient suffering from KCS.

KCS occurs when there is a deficiency in the water part of the tear film, which accounts for 95% of the tear fluid. Without the proper percentage of water, there is a surplus of oil and mucous present resulting in the typical gooey yellow discharge that is characteristic of KCS.

Causes of KCS:

• Congenital defect resulting in lack of tear production
• Injury
• Use of Sulfa type drugs
• Removal of the lacrimal glands ie) during a surgery to correct ‘Cherry Eye’
• Anesthesia, if the eyes aren’t lubricated
• Inheritance due to breed disposition, which is an immune mediated condition causing destruction of the tear gland-Damage to the facial nerve (Cranial Nerve VII)
• Middle ear infection
• Bacterial or viral infections
• Systemic diseases such as hypothyroidism, Cushings, Diabetes Mellitus, Addisons and Distemper.

Symptoms of KCS:

• Pawing or rubbing at eyes
• Eye redness
• Dull, dry, lackluster appearance of the cornea (outer surface of the eyeball)
• Ocular discharge (yellowish green and gooey, collecting in the corners of the eyes and crusting)
• Protrusion of the 3^rd eyelid-Hypersensitivity to light
• Excessive blinking
• Impaired vision
• Ulceration or scaring of the cornea

How is KCS Diagnosed

In the early stages, KCS can resemble common variety eye infections (conjunctivitis), therefore it is important to measure the level of tear production in the affected eye(s). The Schirmer Tear Test is the method used in Veterinary Medicine. A strip of paper is inserted in to the lower eyelid for 60 seconds. The moisture of the eye wets the paper and a scale on the strip indicates this measured level of moisture in the eye.  15 mm or greater is considered normal, while 11-14mm is borderline and less than 5mm is severely dry. If a corneal ulcer is suspected, another test may be performed. This test, like the Schirmer test is not painful or dangerous and is called the Florescein Dye Test. A few drops of dye are placed in the affected eye and will highlight any roughened or ulcerated area if the cornea. The veterinarian looks at the eye with the opthalmoscope and will then rinse the remained of the dye out with a gentle stream of water.

How is KCS treated?

There are several products available to help treat and manage KCS. Cyclosporin is an immunomodulating drug that is used in patients recovering from organ transplants. Used as an eye drop it helps to supress immune destruction and restore tear production (provided the lacrimal glands are still functioning). Cyclosporin has been very successful in treating KCS and only has to be applied once or twice daily. There are other products on the market as well which your veterinarian will consider in determining the best treatment plan for your pet.  Artificial tear products and antibiotics are often added to the treatment regime initially as the low tear production associated with KCS reduces the ability of the eye to wash infectious agents away, making the patient prone to infections.

Immune mediated dry eye is a chronic condition that isn’t curable but can usually be managed with lifelong treatment.  If medication doesn’t alleviate the patient’s symptoms, there are several surgical options that may help. Your veterinarian will advise you when and if surgery may be the most appropriate form of treatment for your pet.

Prognosis for KCS affected patients varies depending on the cause of the condition and the compliance of the owner in following the treatment therapy. Dogs that have immune mediated KCS generally need to be treated daily for the rest of their lives. While a complete cure isn’t always possible, effective management of this condition is quite possible, but it is a long term commitment and can be challenging for owners.

The post KCS in dogs? appeared first on Holland Street Veterinary Services.

Urinary problems in cats can lead to frustration among owners as the cat begins to use inappropriate places as a toilet. Sadly, this is also the reason many cats are relinquished to shelters or euthanised. Your veterinary team understands this frustration. There are steps that you can take to bring harmony back to the home you share with your cat.

The first step is to bring your cat to your local veterinarian. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether the  urinary problem has a medical reason or a behavioral reason. The first thing your veterinarian will do is determine if there is a medical reason. This can involve collecting urine for a urinalysis and culture. It can also involve drawing blood for a complete blood count (CBC) and biochemistry profile. In some cases your veterinarian may want to take radiographs or ultrasounds of the bladder and kidneys.

Some medical reasons that can cause your cat to urinate outside of their box are:

• Urinary Tract Infection
• Crystalluria (crystals in the urine)
• Urolithiasis (bladder stones)
• Diabetes Mellitus (inability to control blood sugar levels)
• Kidney disease (kidney is unable to create urine properly)
• Hyperthyroidism (increased thyroid hormone levels)

Once your veterinarian has diagnosed a medical condition as the culprit, they can help you treat the condition and make changes to eliminate or reduce the symptoms that are causing the inappropriate urination.

If there isn’t any indication that a medical condition is causing your cat to use your bed as a toilet, then your veterinary team will work with you to determine if there is a behavioral reason behind your cat’s urinary problem. Three main behavioral reasons are marking, anxiety or aversion of the litter box.

Marking behavior can be tricky. Marking is a common hormonal behavior done by intact cats and is less likely done by cats that are neutered or spayed. Cats mark while standing with their posterior to the marked object and tail raised. Some “fixed” cats may mark territorially if there are outdoor cats loitering around your house or if there is anxiety in a multiple cat household. Your veterinarian team can help you make changes to help with this behavior.

Inappropriate toileting due to anxiety can be a trickier behavior to rectify. It is very common in multiple cat households or in a household where a new cat, dog or human baby has been introduced to the current cat’s abode. Cats do not take lightly to change. They like consistency. If you are changing your furniture around, redecorating or having visitors stay over, your cat may become anxious and start urinating outside of its litterbox. Your veterinary team can give you advice on helping your cat adjust to the changes and may recommend pheromone diffusers or medication to help your cat be more comfortable.

Last but not least, your cat may not like its litterbox. It can be because of a bad experience, your cat becoming older and less mobile or a change to the litter or the box itself. There are a few things to consider when creating a toilet space for your kitty:

Size: Your kitty should have enough space to circle, dig, urinate/defecate and cover up without touching the sides of the box. Those under-bed storage containers work great as a litterbox!
Cover: Generally cats prefer an uncovered box because covered boxes trap smells, however there are the few that do like them. Offer both and let your cat decide.
Liners: Cats generally don’t like the liners, especially cats with intact claws because their claws can get stuck in them.
Litter type: Unscented is best. Many cats may find the scented litter too strong. Clay litter is usually most desirable whether it be clumping or non-clumping.
Number of boxes: The rule is to have one box for every cat plus one. 2 cats = 3 boxes.
Location: Its best to have one box on every level of your house. Especially for those older cats that have more trouble with the stairs. Keep the box away from noisy, high traffic areas as well as noisy appliances like the furnace and laundry machines. Make sure the litterbox isn’t too close to the food dishes or bed. No one likes to urinate where they eat or sleep.
Cleaning: It is best to clean the litterbox every day. If possible, fully cleaning the litterbox with mild soap and water once a week. Don’t use strong detergents as this may cause aversion to the litterbox because of the strong smell.

Always remember that there is usually a good reason why your kitty may not be using their litterbox. Don’t become frustrated. Your veterinary team will help to determine the cause and best course of treatment of the urinary problem your cat ia experiencing.

The post Urinary Problems in Cats appeared first on Holland Street Veterinary Services.

Avoiding Common Hazards: By Loren Harrington

We all know how busy the holiday season can be. I would like to give you a few helpful tips in order to make sure your pet friends stay safe over the holiday season and not end up in an emergency hospital.

Ribbon & Tinsel

There is just something about tinsel that drives a cat crazy.  Although it can be so cute to see your cat playing around, ingestion of tinsel can be deadly. Eating string like objects (tinsel and ribbon) can cause damage to the intestine.  One end can get stuck while the rest is pulled into the intestines as it contracts and it can cause the tinsel to saw through the intestine or become tangled in the intestines.  If not caught in time they can get an infection in the abdomen, and the prognosis is poor.  Signs your pet as ingested a linear foreign body can progress quickly with vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, and depression. They can also ingest other decorations as well that can get stuck in the intestinal track.  Surgery is usually required for removal of the object if it does not pass on its own.

Lights

Each year check your Christmas lights to ensure there are no defects in the cord.  Your pet can get an electrical shock from chewing on cords.  Examine daily for bite marks, frayed wires, how close the cord is to the tree’s water supply, or any signs of short circuits. Call your Bradford Veterinarian immediately if you suspect your pet has received an electrical shock. Taping down cords and making sure they are unplugged when you are not home may avoid an accident.

Tree Water

If you are adding chemicals to your tree water to make it stay fresher longer, read the package to see if it is safe for pets. As ingestion of these chemicals can make your pet sick and will require a trip to an emergency clinic.

Feeding Your Pet Holiday Snacks

Pets ingesting certain kinds of food can make them very sick or even worse they can get pancreatitis. Pancreatitis is usually caused by eating fatty foods. Fatty meats, gravies, poultry bones and skin, chocolate, and alcohol are all dangerous for your pet. If guests want to give your pet a treat please offer their normal treats as I am sure they will be just as happy.

Holiday Plants

• Who doesn’t have a beautiful ponsettia in their house over the holidays?  Remember as beautiful as they are they can be toxic if ingested by your pet.
• Mistletoe can also be very toxic; you should contact your vet immediately if you think or know your pet as ingested mistletoe.  Signs include vomiting, diarrhea diffculty breathing, shock and even death.

Other Tips

• Watch small pieces of toys
• Anchor Christmas trees down, to avoid falls on your pet
• Pine needles can also puncture the intestine if ingested
• Snow globes may contain anti-freeze. Make sure anti-freeze is stored properly. Ensure there are no leaks from vehicles as it is sweet tasting and pets will lick it off the pavement. There are also pet-safe anti-freeze products available.

Giving a New Pet as a Gift

Who wouldn’t love a cute puppy or a sweet little kitten as a gift for Christmas?  Please ensure the person whom you are giving it to knows and understands the long term care and responsibility of a pet.  Population of shelters is high after the holiday season because people are returning their gift as they are unable to look after it.

Hopefully these tips will help keep the holiday home extra safe for your pet.  Who wants to end up in an emergency hospital?  Most situations are avoidable if you take extra care of pet proofing your home.  I wish all of you a very safe Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

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Animal behaviorists suggest that you first find a special spot for your dog or cat that they can retreat to when the commotion of a new baby gets too much for them.  Have this special spot stocked with water, food and their favourite blanket or toys.  Try playing a recording of a baby crying a few weeks in advance of baby’s birth so that your pet gets used to this new sound.

Also, start training your new pet if you have decided they are no longer allowed on the furniture once baby arrives.  Your pet may come to resent your baby if they associate their inability to lay on the furniture when the baby comes home. Training your pet months in advance of baby’s arrival will assure that there is no confusion.  Training your pet starts with redirecting them when they jump on the furniture and offer a treat.  You may need to retrain a bit when baby comes home.  Setting up the baby’s furniture well in advance of baby’s arrival and training your pet to know that this new furniture is not for them will also help in the long run. Plan on bringing home a blanket that you used in the hospital so that your pet can smell it and get used to that new smell as well.

Getting your pet desensitized to little fingers poking and prodding them is also important before it starts.  Start by gently touching your pet in these spots (i.e. face, ears, tail etc.).  If you are having a problem working with your pet, have someone give your pet treats while you are doing the touching.  These exercises should be done for short periods (2 to 5 minutes in length) about 5 times a day.  It is also best to do these exercises during activities that your pet likes so that they also associate the touching with fun activities.

If your pet has a history of not reacting well to small children, get help from a professional trainer.  These will help alleviate your stress in getting your pet desensitized and lower the stress level in your animal by doing the right thing and not making it worse!  Professional trainers can help with simple suggestions that you might not even realize as a new parent.  Making sure that your pet has some of the basic commands down (i.e. sit, down) also goes a long way in making him baby ready.  Remember to never leave your pet and baby together unmonitored.

Stay patient with your pet.  It may take a while for them to realize that they are no longer the ‘baby’ of the family.  Keeping your pets involved in the process of welcoming the latest addition to your family will help in them accepting baby and caring for it.  Expect a little jealousy since their role has now changed.  So that your pet does not feel left out, remember to make alone time with them every day doing activities that they love.

Enjoy the months before your new baby arrives but do not forget about your first baby!

The post Preparing your pet for the new baby appeared first on Holland Street Veterinary Services.

What exactly does this mean?

CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) preserves brain function until proper blood circulation and breathing can be restored. Artificial respiration is a technique used in first aid to manually get air flow in and out of the lungs so that a patient in respiratory distress can get adequate oxygen delivered to the heart and brain.

How do I know if my dog is in respiratory distress?

Any condition that causes breathing to cease or severely reduce oxygen intake requires emergency artificial respiration. A dog can be in respiratory distress if you observe any of the following:

• The dog’s tongue, lips, gums and eyelids may be dark red or blue.
• Respiration may stop completely, or may be much slower than normal and the dog may gasp for air.
• The dog may extend its neck, elevate its nose, and try to pant in attempt to breathe more easily.
• The dog may become unconscious and the pupils of the eye may appear dilated. There may also be lack of a blink reflex in the eyes.

Common causes of respiratory emergencies

Obstruction of the pharynx or air passages.

These situations are often caused by a foreign body obstruction such a piece of bone or stick, a ball or piece of a toy; by mucous, vomit or blood, by swelling from burns, or by ingested corrosive materials. Be aware that in these cases the tongue may also swell and fall back into the throat which can add to the obstruction.

Asphyxia

This occurs when the oxygen level in the air is reduced by smoke or toxic gases. Animals trapped in confined areas such as refrigerators, small boxes, wells, etc. that cannot escape the carbon monoxide buildup may be deprived of enough oxygen to support life and can die quickly. Other examples of asphyxia are: drowning, smoke inhalation, strangulation, electrocution and poisonings because the respiratory system can be weakened by the toxic effects of poisons or damaging effects of electrocution.

Chest Injuries

Crushing and kicking injuries to the chest may damage or puncture the lungs and other vital organs. Ribs may break and let air into the lungs which destroys the normal capacity of the lungs to function.  This is called pneumothorax. No matter how hard the animal tries, it cannot inhale and exhale adequate amounts of air. Other types of injuries to the chest include impalement such as running into a sharp stick, deep lacerations, even arrow or gunshot wounds.

Procedure – The key to CPR is remembering the ABCs: Airway, Breathing, and Cardiac compression.

Chest comprssions

Lay the dog on a flat surface on its right side, and extend the head back to create an airway with the tongue pulled out and forward.

Open the dog’s mouth and examine the back of the throat for anything that may be causing an obstruction, and if there is one gently try to remove it. Be careful because your dog is going to feel panicked and may inadvertently clamp down on your hand. Cup your hands around the muzzle of the dog’s mouth so that only the nostrils are clear. Blow air into the nostrils with five or six quick breaths, depending on the size of the dog. Small dogs and puppies and require short and shallow breaths. Larger dogs need longer and deeper breaths. Continue the quick breaths at a rate of one breath every three seconds or 20 breaths per minute.

Check for a pulse by using your finger on the inside of the thigh, just above the knee. If you don’t feel a pulse, put your hand over the dog’s chest cavity where the elbow touches the middle of the chest. If you still don’t find a pulse, have one person continue breathing into the nostrils (mouth to snout), while another gives chest compressions. If you are alone, do the compressions and artificial respiration yourself.

Begin chest compressions by placing both hands palms down on the chest cavity of the dog. For most dogs, chest compressions can be performed on the widest part of the chest while the dog is lying on his side.

• For dogs with keel-shaped chests (i.e. deep, narrow chests) in breeds such as greyhounds push down closer to the dog’s armpit, directly over the heart.
• For dogs with barrel-chested dogs like English bulldogs lay the dog on its back and compress on the sternum (directly over the heart).
• For smaller dogs (and cats) chest-compressions scan be done with one hand wrapped around the sternum, encircling the heart or two-handed on the ribs.
• For large dogs, place your hands on top of each other. For small dogs or puppies, place one hand or thumb on the chest.

Use the heel of your hand(s) to push down for 30 quick compressions followed by 2 breaths of air and then check to see if consciousness has been restored. Continue in the same fashion of 30 compressions to 2 breaths of air until  the dog is breathing on its own, or you have arrived at the veterinary office and have been advised to stop.

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Puppies and kittens are cute but taking them home requires a life long commitment. Are you ready for a new pet?

Getting a new pet is a decision that can be difficult for many, a Bradford veterinarian offers helpful hints and advice that might help.  We have all walked into the local pet store and fallen in love with the adorable puppy or kitten or gone on the web to find what cute puppies are up for adoption from local breeders/kijiji.  If you kids have been bugging for a new pet, you need to ask if your family is ready for a pet.

Experts say that the best age to introduce a family dog to children is around 10.  At this age, they are ready to be actively involved in the training process.  They are also passed the toddler stage where they ingest everything and are constantly putting things into their mouths.  For preschool/early school year age kids, pocket pets and reptiles can make great, low maintenance additions.  Guinea pigs, rats, snakes and leopard geckos are amongst the more easy to handle and care for and are worthwhile considering if you are looking for a new pet.

A Bradford veterinarian offers some advice/questions for those considering adopting or purchasing a new pet for their family.

1. Does your child seem relaxed and happy around animals?
2. Can your child be gentle?
3. Do you have the space required for the new addition?
4. Are you at home often enough to give your pet attention, clean up after it and allow it to exercise properly?
5. Have you thought about who will care for the pet when you are away/on vacation?
6. Has your child stopped putting everything in his mouth?
7. Are you sure that allergies won’t be a problem?
8. Can you deal with a home that isn’t super-tidy?
9. Are you financially prepared for pet-care costs?  For breakdown of what to expect cost-wise for a dog or cat in the first year, please visit http://www.ovma.org/pet_owners/cost_of_owning_dog_cat.html.  Pet insurance such as PetSecure http://www.petsecure.com/ is something that is also worthwhile considering.
10. If you answered no to most or even all of these questions, you are certainly not ready for a new pet.  But do not be discouraged!  Once your life is a little more settled (i.e. kids are a little older and can handle more of the responsibility of a pet) the opportunity to have a family pet will come again.  Remember that just because your family is not ready for a pet 24/7 does not mean no contact with animals.  There are still plenty of opportunities to have your children interact with animals (i.e. petting zoos, farms and dog parks – always remember to ask the owner before letting your little ones pet an animal!).

If you are able to commit to the responsiblity of a new pet, you are in luck.  Research has shown that people with pets are happier, healthier and suffer less depression.  Visit http://www.helpguide.org/life/pets.htm to learn more.

Bringing a new pet into the family is an important responsibility.  Not being ready for a furry friend in your household can only lead to problems for you, your kids and pet.  Being honest with yourself and knowing when the timing is right will lead to the joys of being an animal owner!  When you are ready, you will know.  Also, when choosing your pet, it is not just puppies and kittens that need a home.  There are a lot of wonderful pets waiting for their forever homes at your local shelters.

If you do decide to adopt a pet, puppy or kitten, please visit your Braford veterinarian at Holland Street Veterinary Services within the first week for a visit to ensure they are healthy.  Dr. Michelle will perform a complimentary examination on your new pet.

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